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	<title>Lark Photography &#187; lens</title>
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	<description>Smile and Shoot</description>
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		<title>Purchasing the Right Lens</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/purchasing-the-right-lens/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/purchasing-the-right-lens/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 May 2010 07:22:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[lens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[choose]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[perfect]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[purchase]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=83</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
One of the worst things fledgling photographers can do is be penny  wise and pound foolish in their equipment purchasing decisions. I would  strongly advise you to always purchase name brand lenses. If you own a  Canon digital single lens reflex body, buy Canon lenses. This holds  especially true in the [...]]]></description>
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<p>One of the worst things fledgling photographers can do is be penny  wise and pound foolish in their equipment purchasing decisions. I would  strongly advise you to always purchase name brand lenses. If you own a  Canon digital single lens reflex body, buy Canon lenses. This holds  especially true in the case of Nature Photography. The price difference  between an off brand lens could be measured far more than dollars in a  few years down the road if it costs you potential clients, time and  money. There is nothing worse than reviewing older images only to find  gaping holes in the quality of the images simply because you opted to  save a few dollars on your lens purchase. Remember to opt for the best  quality lens you can afford. This especially holds true for long  telephoto lenses or long zoom lenses. You are far better of saving your  pennies and buying quality in the long run. It&#8217;s kind of like the old  story of the hare and the turtle. Remember if there is a substantial  difference in the price between a brand name lens and the off brand  lens, chances are you are not just paying for the name.</p>
<p>One should  have an array of lenses in their camera bag that compliments their  camera body. Try to avoid buying super long wide angle to telephoto zoom  lenses that offers the coverage of three lenses in one. Your image  quality can be seriously compromised, for instance a 28mm-70mm lens will  offer far superior images than a 28mm-300mm lens. Although it may seem  like a good idea you are taking from Peter to pay Paul by using a lens  with such a wide zoom range. Be aware fixed focal length lenses  traditionally outperform zoom lenses. If we look at a 28mm f 2.8 lens  and compare it the 28mm-300mm zoom, the fixed 28mm lens will out perform  the zoom at the 28mm focal length hands down. It&#8217;s simply a matter of  physics and lens design. Keep in mind all lenses are made up of groups  of glass or epoxy elements lined up together making the optical formula  of that particular lens. As you zoon in and out the groups of elements  move inside of the lens barrel giving you the zoom range or optical  formula of the lens. Be aware even the material of the lens barrel can  affect the quality of your images. How so? A metal barrel will keep all  the optical elements in critical alignment as you zoom in or out far  better than a plastic or polymer barrel.</p>
<p>Many have argued the  advent of computer designed zoom lenses perform nearly as well as fixed  lenses. In some cases this can be true however remember to compare apple  to apples. A Canon 100mm-400mm zoom may perform as well as the fixed  Canon 400mm 5.6 fixed lens. By the same token there is little cost  difference between these two lenses. If you live in an area where you  can rent lenses, I highly recommend you do so as opposed to making your  decision based upon a review of a competitive lens in a photography  magazine. Keep in mind photography magazines do not survive through  readership dollars they survive on advertising dollars. Long or short  focal length, you do get what you pay for when it comes to lenses.  Should you always spend top dollar on your lenses? Not necessarily but  keep in mind what your objective is. If you just want to capture moments  and images for you to enjoy and share with friends and family then  maybe not. For those of you have serious aspirations or intentions of  using your images in a commercial or competitive venue then the answer  may very well be yes.</p></div>
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		<title>Blackbird, Fly Twin Lens Reflex Camera &#8211; Holga Successor?</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/blackbird-fly-twin-lens-reflex-camera-holga-successor/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/blackbird-fly-twin-lens-reflex-camera-holga-successor/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Aug 2009 09:02:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[holga]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reflex]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[twin]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=54</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Diana came about in the early 1960&#8217;s: a plastic camera with a square mask to create 4 x 4cm square images on 120 film. Because it was essentially as simple a camera as one could make &#8212; it was plastic, prone to light leaks, and inexpensive &#8212; it was considered a &#8220;toy&#8221; camera. Originating [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Diana came about in the early 1960&#8217;s: a plastic camera with a square mask to create 4 x 4cm square images on 120 film. Because it was essentially as simple a camera as one could make &#8212; it was plastic, prone to light leaks, and inexpensive &#8212; it was considered a &#8220;toy&#8221; camera. Originating in Hong Kong and mostly given away at public entertainment events such as fairs and carnivals, these cameras have since ended up all over the world and continue to have a cult following. With their light leaks and a variable number of other imperfections, many photographers claim that no two Diana cameras are alike, in the same way that no two photographers have the same &#8220;eye.&#8221; The result is a poor quality, vignetted, low contrast, and often blurry image. Typically these were less than desirable qualities of a camera in the minds of most photographers, but the Diana changed that. It caused hobbyists and professional photographers alike to think a little less about every shot, to let happen what was going to happen, to let go of some of the control of how to image would turn out, and to &#8220;shoot from the hip&#8221;.<span id="more-54"></span></p>
<p>In the 1980&#8217;s, the Holga appeared. There were many similarities between the Diana and the Holga. Both were made in Hong Kong, both were constructed of plastic, both used 120 format film, had light leaks, vignetting, blur, and miscellaneous other imperfections. The Holga is considered the successor to the Diana, though it wasn&#8217;t intended as a toy. T.M. Lee created the Holga with working-class China in mind. He hoped its mass-production and low cost would bring photography to the average person. Mainly he wanted the masses to be able to create photographic archives of family members and important events. The Holga was later distributed in many parts of the world. Many photographers started using them in more artistic ways, often using them to capture everyday life on the streets.</p>
<p>Now, 29 years later, we have a successor to the Holga &#8212; with some important differences. The Blackbird, Fly, created by Superheadz in Japan, is a Twin Lens Reflex (TLR) camera. This means is that there are two objective lenses. One is for taking the photograph, while the other is for the waist-level viewfinder. Behind the viewfinder lens is a mirror at a 45-degree angle (hence the term &#8220;reflex&#8221;), which reflects light upwards through a matte focusing screen surrounded by a hood/enclosure used to block some light to reduce reflection on the screen. This creates an image on the screen identical to what will be captured on film through the photographic lens. The Blackbird, Fly also takes 35mm film instead of 120 format film. That makes things a bit easier and more convenient. 120 film can be harder to find these days, and finding a place to have it developed can be even harder, and the development time can take longer. You can&#8217;t drop 120 film off at the nearest 1-hour photo like you can with 35mm.</p>
<p>The Blackbird, Fly can shoot in three formats (using provided masks); normal 35mm (24mm x 36mm), square format (24mm x 24mm), and large square format (36mm x 36mm).</p>
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		<title>The Best Camera Lens To Take On Your Safari</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/the-best-camera-lens-to-take-on-your-safari/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/the-best-camera-lens-to-take-on-your-safari/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 May 2009 08:50:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[lens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=26</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
So you&#8217;ve booked your once in a lifetime safari trip to Africa and now your thoughts turn towards photographing all the wildlife you are going to encounter on your adventure.
It would be a great shame to come across your first African pride of lions and not have some decent pictures of the memorable event to [...]]]></description>
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<p>So you&#8217;ve booked your once in a lifetime safari trip to Africa and now your thoughts turn towards photographing all the wildlife you are going to encounter on your adventure.<span id="more-26"></span></p>
<p>It would be a great shame to come across your first African pride of lions and not have some decent pictures of the memorable event to show your friends and family back home.</p>
<p>Unfortunately many people who go on safari don&#8217;t realize that the camera lens you take with you will be the deciding factor between getting wildlife photos where the subject is an unrecognizable blob in a sea of vegetation compared to a crisp, tightly framed image of that black maned leader of the lion pride.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve been practicing wildlife photography on safari for over twenty years now and I&#8217;ve learnt which are the best lenses to arm yourself with when you go into the African bush to capture lasting, quality images you will be proud to display to anyone.</p>
<p>My recommendations here are for the occasional wildlife photographer such as someone going on an African safari and not for professional wildlife photographers as they have different needs when it comes to camera lenses because they take photographs for a living.</p>
<p>To help you choose a lens to take with you on safari, here is a list of the factors you need to take into account before putting your money down&#8230;</p>
<p><strong>1. Size Of The Lens</strong></p>
<p>Anything less than a 300mm lens for the big game you will encounter on safari like lion, rhino, elephant etc will be too small. A 400mm lens will allow you to get good pictures of the smaller animals like bushbuck, vervet monkey and the like. If you are aiming for bird photographs then a 600 mm lens will do the trick.</p>
<p><strong>2. Your Budget</strong></p>
<p>It&#8217;s very easy to find lenses that cost thousands of dollars but if you are primarily going to be using it for your safari trip and maybe a smattering of wildlife photography after that, you shouldn&#8217;t be spending more than a few hundred dollars. It is possible to get a lens of high enough quality for your purpose in that price range.</p>
<p><strong>3. Image Stabilization</strong></p>
<p>It&#8217;s not imperative but if you can get a lens with an image stabilizer it&#8217;s a huge advantage on a safari because you can handhold the lens without too much fear of blurring in good light which is especially useful if you are not next to a window in the safari vehicle or don&#8217;t have enough space to position your beanbag or tripod.</p>
<p><strong>4. Zoom Ability</strong></p>
<p>On safari one lens is better than two because of the nature of your subject. When you come across a leopard you won&#8217;t have time to switch lenses on your camera body because they tend not to stick around for too long so one lens with a good zoom is a big advantage to capture the very shy wildlife you will encounter. Another reason not to change lenses is that dust that is prevalent on an African safari can cause the camera mechanisms to clog up.</p>
<p>So keep these four factors in mind before you make your purchase and if you can find a lens that conforms to all the above requirements than you have a winner.</p></div>
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