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	<title>Lark Photography &#187; camera</title>
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	<link>http://larkphotography.com</link>
	<description>Smile and Shoot</description>
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		<title>Using Expensive SLR Cameras at Weddings</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/using-expensive-slr-cameras-at-weddings/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/using-expensive-slr-cameras-at-weddings/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Apr 2010 06:21:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[SLR]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wedding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=81</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Most people see someone carrying expensive SLR cameras at weddings  and are immediately struck by a sense of awe and respect, getting out of  their way to let them take pictures of anything they like. SLR cameras  have a distinctive look; the large barrel, the popup flash. They look  like they [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="body">
<p>Most people see someone carrying expensive SLR cameras at weddings  and are immediately struck by a sense of awe and respect, getting out of  their way to let them take pictures of anything they like. SLR cameras  have a distinctive look; the large barrel, the popup flash. They look  like they mean business, unlike the slim point and shoot cameras that  are designed to fit as much ability as possible into your pocket.</p>
<p>I  own both an SLR and a point and shoot. Personally, I find that with a  good enough point and shoot camera, the knowledge of how to use the  manual settings is all I really need to produce a picture as good as one  taken with the SLR. In some cases the picture may even turn out better,  because my point and shoot has auto-focus and anti-shake technology  built in. The limited ability to change exposure and aperture manually  even helps, because it refuses to allow me to use a setting that will  create an overly dim or overly bright picture.</p>
<p>Together, this  means I can focus on creating the best frame and composition for each  picture without worrying about whether it will turn out blurred, too  dark, or too bright. With my SLR, I find myself taking the same picture  over and over, adjusting settings minutely each time. Of course, given  enough time and a tripod, say with a landscape scene, I can adjust  everything until it produces an absolutely gorgeous picture. But in a  wedding, where every moment is special and only occurs for an instant, I  simply cannot afford the time to adjust my settings between each shot.  It&#8217;s a balance between leaving the camera on one setting and hoping it  works for every shot I take, and risking missing out on something  important as I adjust exposure and aperture. With a point and shoot  camera, I let the camera worry about the basic settings, trusting it to  adjust for light for me, and focus on capturing the events of the day in  the best composition I can.</p>
<p>Besides, I would believe most brides  would care more about the photographer catching the absolute joy on  their face as they say &#8220;I do&#8221;, than about how exact the light balance is  in the background, as long as it is not completely wrong. The point and  shoot camera can guarantee that my backgrounds will always look  alright.</p>
<p>So why do so many camera companies sell the idea that an  SLR is better than a point and shoot? For that matter, why do I own  both? Well, as I said, when taking photographs of things that are not  going to change significantly in the next 5 minutes, such as flowers or  even models in a photoshoot, I can spend time fiddling with settings and  produce National Geographic-worthy pictures. It&#8217;s also far better when I  want to take artistic shots or play with focal lengths and  perspectives, because I can force the camera into settings a point and  shoot will never allow, creating all kinds of interesting and unusual  pictures. Every once in a while one of these pictures will be stunningly  beautiful and artistic. But at an event where every moment is different  yet important, I prefer to use my point and shoot for the reasons I  detailed above.</p>
<p>Camera companies are not completely wrong to say  an SLR is better than a point and shoot. The SLR has the potential to  produce pictures of amazing quality, perspective and artistry that the  point and shoot will only be able to imitate. But that&#8217;s all it is, a  potential. What it comes down to is the ability of the photographer to  maximise the ability of his camera. In the hands of someone who knows  exactly what setting to use for every shot, every possible scenario,  every possible balance of light and shade, a point and shoot can produce  better pictures than I can, stumbling around with my SLR.</p></div>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to Turn Your Digital Camera Hobby Into a Money Making Business</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/how-to-turn-your-digital-camera-hobby-into-a-money-making-business/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/how-to-turn-your-digital-camera-hobby-into-a-money-making-business/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:33:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[business]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hobby]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=76</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Make Money With Your Digital Camera
Turning a hobby or pastime like digital photography into a money making deal can offer possibilities of generating extra income for the person with a creative and entrepreneurial mind. With the current technology and quality of digital cameras, paired with the wide reach of the internet, many photographers can offer [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="body">
<p><strong>Make Money With Your Digital Camera</strong></p>
<p>Turning a hobby or pastime like digital photography into a money making deal can offer possibilities of generating extra income for the person with a creative and entrepreneurial mind. With the current technology and quality of digital cameras, paired with the wide reach of the internet, many photographers can offer their products and services online. Below are some ways to cash in on the digital photography wave.</p>
<p><strong>Follow the People</strong></p>
<p>You must know what people want. Make your presence felt in the places people are. There are many places you can go where people would want their photos to be taken, somewhere memorable. You can offer your service during parades, concerts, competitions, gatherings, parks, and just any tourist attractions people might be compelled to have their pictures taken. It would help if you had your own business card, present your services to the crowd and start taking those photos. Open a legitimate website where people can view their photos and they can just choose to buy what they prefer.</p>
<p><strong>Create Novelty Items</strong></p>
<p>If you have access to software that can create novelty items that allow you to superimpose people&#8217;s images to a background, make use of it. Advertise yourself and offer a variety of unique services to companies. Take note of the additional expenses you might accumulate, including time and travel expenses to each item. This could add to your profit margin.<span id="more-76"></span></p>
<p><strong>Custom Greeting Cards</strong></p>
<p>Take advantage of the idea that people aren&#8217;t as creative as you are. People love sending postcards and greeting cards of the places they&#8217;ve visited to family and friends. Remember, there&#8217;s always a market for those eager to send Christmas cards, invitations, and special occasion cards. Make it known to your target market that you offer these types of services. There might be hard work involved in these ventures but you might be surprised how satisfying the returns are.</p>
<p><strong>Create Slideshows</strong></p>
<p>One way to advertise your services is to create slideshows. Most people don&#8217;t have the knowledge, time, or expertise to create such items. Your know how on this type of software could pay major dividends in the future. There are always organizations and companies in your area who are willing to pay for these services because it saves them effort and time. Offer packages according to the market. Show them a sample of your designs and build your market from there. Building relationships with company decision makers can make or break your business.</p>
<p><strong>Offer a Class</strong></p>
<p>If you&#8217;re an amateur photographer, chances are you&#8217;ve accumulated enough knowledge to teach others. There are groups out there eager to get some tips about digital photography, people who have the same passion as yours. What they really need is the personal touch, someone who offers a friendly face and helping hand to give them a grasp of the basics. Remember, there&#8217;s always someone eager to learn the ropes.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that there are always a number of ways to make use of your passion as an income-generating machine.</p>
<p>There are always a number of people out there who have the same passion as yours. You can plan a proper business model that can ensure a profit. The best business is a business that ensures everyone gets what they want and keeps coming back for more.</p></div>
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		<item>
		<title>Cameras for Dads and Grads</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/cameras-for-dads-and-grads/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/cameras-for-dads-and-grads/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Aug 2009 08:52:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Canera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eguipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photograph]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photography]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=58</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cameras are great gifts for dads and grads, but deciding which one is the right one can be tricky. Here are some tips to help you make the best choice.
Film or Digital
This debate can get quite lengthy, and I use both film and digital. But I will make this easy for you: Unless you’re buying [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cameras are great gifts for dads and grads, but deciding which one is the right one can be tricky. Here are some tips to help you make the best choice.</p>
<p><strong>Film or Digital</strong><br />
This debate can get quite lengthy, and I use both film and digital. But I will make this easy for you: Unless you’re buying a camera for a professional photographer, go with digital. Digital is more convenient and there are no film costs. If your dad or grad falls in love with photography, he or she may eventually want a film camera as well. At that point, you can congratulate yourself for introducing someone into the wonderful world of photography. You can also be certain that from that point forward, your dad or grad will never be shy about letting you know exactly what he or she wants when it comes to photography equipment.<span id="more-58"></span></p>
<p><strong>Digital Features</strong><br />
The first thing I advise you to do is to figure out what features your gift recipient will want. Here are some important features.</p>
<p><em>Resolution </em><br />
In digital photography, this is determined by how many megapixels the camera has. Megapixels do not determine the quality of the image; rather they determine the quality of the print size. The more megapixels, the bigger the enlargement can be without losing clarity. A three-megapixel camera will provide good prints up to 8 x 10. That will probably be sufficient for most dads and grads. However, getting more won’t hurt.</p>
<p>If your gift recipient is likely to use the photos online, you can get by with fewer megapixels.</p>
<p><em>Size</em><br />
I’m going to go out on a limb here and suggest that small and sleek might be ideal for a recent grad. If you hope to see photos of their new life, make it convenient for them to take a camera with them. It’s a lot easier to stick a camera in a pocket or purse than it is to carry it over your shoulder or around your neck. Cameras that need camera bags tend to stay in closets or under beds unless someone has a real passion for photography.</p>
<p>On the other hand, if you’re getting a camera for a dad who loves taking photos of kids playing sports or family vacation photos, a larger model might work better. The features are larger and easy to find and manipulate, and larger models often offer more options. (There are only so many options you can pack into a little bundle.)</p>
<p>If this is the first digital camera your recipient has had and he or she hasn’t ever shown any strong interest in photography, I’d avoid buying a 35 mm digital camera with interchangeable lenses. That could be overwhelming. On the other hand, if your recipient has shown a strong interest in photography and is forever e-mailing photos to friends and family members, it could well be time to get the 35 mm/interchangeable lens camera. You’ll be a hero!</p>
<p><em>Ease of Use</em><br />
You know your recipient. If he or she simply wants to point and shoot, make sure you get a camera that has all automatic settings and will make every decision all on its own. On the other hand, if your recipient likes to fiddle with things and is a techno freak, make sure you get something that give him or her the ability to make manual adjustments.</p>
<p><strong>Options</strong><br />
Digital cameras have a variety of options. The ones I would make sure the camera has are:<br />
•	Optical zoom lens<br />
•	Ability to use rechargeable batteries<br />
•	Removable memory card (vs. strictly storing photos inside the camera)<br />
• An ISO range of up to at least up to 400 (more if the person is likely to shoot in dim light) Note: ISO determines how light sensitive the camera is.<br />
•	A built-in flash (with a red-eye reduction feature)<br />
•	An LCD screen for viewing pictures<br />
•	A glass lens (rather than a plastic one)</p>
<p>Other features to consider include:<br />
• Ability to set the camera to manual mode. This allows for much more creativity. Personally, I’d never give anyone a camera without this. It’s like giving someone a coloring book and insisting they “stay inside the lines,” vs. giving them a sketch book and inks, pastels, watercolors, etc.<br />
•	Video capability to make short movies. You aren’t going to get high quality here, but it can be fun.<br />
•	Close up mode. Nice feature that allows the user to take super close-ups of things like flower petals, stamps, bugs, etc.<br />
• A timer. Nice to make sure the camera is steady if it’s on a tripod and useful it the photographer wants to jump into the picture.<br />
• Ability to release shutter once and have it take a series of pictures within seconds. Great for someone who is going to be shooting sports or other action photos.</p>
<p><strong>How to Choose</strong><br />
Do your research. Go online and do a search for Web sites that compare digital cameras. Ask someone you know with a digital camera whether or not they like theirs. Find out what they say they could live without and what they’d never give up. If they are knowledgeable, maybe they could help you decide. Go to a store and hold the cameras. What feels good?</p>
<p>Make a list of the most important features the person you are giving the gift to will want. Prioritize the features. Then search for cameras within your price range and match as many features as you can to a price you can afford.</p>
<p>Stick with brand names you trust. You can’t go wrong with a Nikon or Canon. (Personally, I have always used Nikons and wouldn’t trade them for anything.)</p>
<p>Look at the complete package. Some packages include memory cards, cables to hook the camera up to the computer, and rechargeable batteries. Some digital cameras have “ports” you set your camera in to recharge the batteries.</p>
<p>I can’t believe I’m saying this, but for a grad who isn’t interested in learning all about photography, you’re well advised to consider appearance. Slick and sleek might be way more important that one with more features but that isn’t as cool looking.</p>
<p>Think of the ability to exchange the camera. If you buy a camera that doesn’t have a feature the recipient MUST have (and of course never mentioned to you), you will want to be able to exchange it for something the recipient will be able to use to capture the photographs he or she has in mind.</p>
<p><strong>Price</strong><br />
Digital cameras with 3 megapixels can start as low as $100 and go to thousands for professional models. When comparing prices, make sure you take into account the entire package that comes with the camera.</p>
<p>Shop around. You can find some great deals on the Internet from highly reputable camera stores. Watch inserts in the Sunday paper as well. Visit some camera and electronic stores.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Blackbird, Fly Twin Lens Reflex Camera &#8211; Holga Successor?</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/blackbird-fly-twin-lens-reflex-camera-holga-successor/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/blackbird-fly-twin-lens-reflex-camera-holga-successor/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Aug 2009 09:02:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[holga]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reflex]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[twin]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=54</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Diana came about in the early 1960&#8217;s: a plastic camera with a square mask to create 4 x 4cm square images on 120 film. Because it was essentially as simple a camera as one could make &#8212; it was plastic, prone to light leaks, and inexpensive &#8212; it was considered a &#8220;toy&#8221; camera. Originating [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Diana came about in the early 1960&#8217;s: a plastic camera with a square mask to create 4 x 4cm square images on 120 film. Because it was essentially as simple a camera as one could make &#8212; it was plastic, prone to light leaks, and inexpensive &#8212; it was considered a &#8220;toy&#8221; camera. Originating in Hong Kong and mostly given away at public entertainment events such as fairs and carnivals, these cameras have since ended up all over the world and continue to have a cult following. With their light leaks and a variable number of other imperfections, many photographers claim that no two Diana cameras are alike, in the same way that no two photographers have the same &#8220;eye.&#8221; The result is a poor quality, vignetted, low contrast, and often blurry image. Typically these were less than desirable qualities of a camera in the minds of most photographers, but the Diana changed that. It caused hobbyists and professional photographers alike to think a little less about every shot, to let happen what was going to happen, to let go of some of the control of how to image would turn out, and to &#8220;shoot from the hip&#8221;.<span id="more-54"></span></p>
<p>In the 1980&#8217;s, the Holga appeared. There were many similarities between the Diana and the Holga. Both were made in Hong Kong, both were constructed of plastic, both used 120 format film, had light leaks, vignetting, blur, and miscellaneous other imperfections. The Holga is considered the successor to the Diana, though it wasn&#8217;t intended as a toy. T.M. Lee created the Holga with working-class China in mind. He hoped its mass-production and low cost would bring photography to the average person. Mainly he wanted the masses to be able to create photographic archives of family members and important events. The Holga was later distributed in many parts of the world. Many photographers started using them in more artistic ways, often using them to capture everyday life on the streets.</p>
<p>Now, 29 years later, we have a successor to the Holga &#8212; with some important differences. The Blackbird, Fly, created by Superheadz in Japan, is a Twin Lens Reflex (TLR) camera. This means is that there are two objective lenses. One is for taking the photograph, while the other is for the waist-level viewfinder. Behind the viewfinder lens is a mirror at a 45-degree angle (hence the term &#8220;reflex&#8221;), which reflects light upwards through a matte focusing screen surrounded by a hood/enclosure used to block some light to reduce reflection on the screen. This creates an image on the screen identical to what will be captured on film through the photographic lens. The Blackbird, Fly also takes 35mm film instead of 120 format film. That makes things a bit easier and more convenient. 120 film can be harder to find these days, and finding a place to have it developed can be even harder, and the development time can take longer. You can&#8217;t drop 120 film off at the nearest 1-hour photo like you can with 35mm.</p>
<p>The Blackbird, Fly can shoot in three formats (using provided masks); normal 35mm (24mm x 36mm), square format (24mm x 24mm), and large square format (36mm x 36mm).</p>
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		<item>
		<title>How to Take Beautiful Photographs With Your Camera Phone</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/how-to-take-beautiful-photographs-with-your-camera-phone/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/how-to-take-beautiful-photographs-with-your-camera-phone/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Aug 2009 10:43:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beautiful]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[phone]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pictures]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=51</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Almost everyone these days has a mobile phone. Mobile phones with inbuilt cameras have really taken off in recent years. Some camera phones have quite amazing cameras with high specifications. Why not use your phone to take beautiful photos? I don&#8217;t suggest that you replace your camera with a camera phone but, phones are incredible [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="body">
<p>Almost everyone these days has a mobile phone. Mobile phones with inbuilt cameras have really taken off in recent years. Some camera phones have quite amazing cameras with high specifications. Why not use your phone to take beautiful photos? I don&#8217;t suggest that you replace your camera with a camera phone but, phones are incredible handy and perfect for when you have left your camera at home and see that perfect photo opportunity.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m going to prove to you that you can take beautiful photos with your mobile phone in 5 simple steps.<span id="more-51"></span></p>
<p>1. Keep that lens clean.</p>
<p>The lens on your camera will be lucky enough to have a protective cover, the lens on your camera phone may not be so lucky! Your phone is often in your hand, in the bottom of a bag or left about where the lens is just collecting dust and grime. To get beautiful photographs from your camera phone you need to first look after the lens. Here are two ways in which to keep that lens squeaky clean: Get your camera phone a cover, its good if you can take it off when taking a photo. This will minimise dirt getting to the lens when your phone is in your bag or not in use. Clean the lens. The ideal solution is not to get it dirty in the first place, but lets face it, may be quite difficult. If you have a dirty lens take an ear bud and really gently clean the lens in a twisting motion.</p>
<p>2. Avoid digital Zoom.</p>
<p>Using digital zoom on your camera phone is a bad idea. Digital zoom works by cropping the image and then enlarging it, thus decreasing the quality of your photograph making the image much more pixelated. Some camera phones are now being sold that have optical zoom. Optical zoom works by enlarging the pixels meaning that the zoom will produce a crisper image to that of digital zoom.</p>
<p>Use &#8216;natural&#8217; zoom, your feet and get close to what your photographing. Fill the frame. Camera phones tend to have low resolution making the subject seem very tiny and sometimes unrecognisable, so get close.</p>
<p>3. Hold still.</p>
<p>In low light the camera phone will set a slower shutter speed, this will increase camera shake so its really important to hold still. To help you hold the phone still, grip the phone tightly and lean your wrist or arm on something stable like a table or wall. This will help you keep the camera phone from moving when your taking a photograph.</p>
<p>Remember that when you take a photo using your camera phone there is usually a time delay from your pressing the shutter to the photograph actually being taken. This delay is called shutter lag. You will have to hold still for a few extra seconds until the photo has been taken.</p>
<p>4. Give your photos a chance!</p>
<p>Remember the screen on your phone is smaller and not as good as the screen on your computer. If your memory allows, keep all your photos and look at them more carefully when you look at them on the computer. Shoot hundreds of photographs!</p>
<p>5. Light your subject well.</p>
<p>Make the most of natural light as not all camera phones have a inbuilt flash. If possible shoot out side. When shooting inside turn lights on to add extra light.</p>
<p>If you do have a flash remember to use it when shooting in bright light too as this will act as a fill flash.</p></div>
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		<title>4 Simple Tips to Reduce Camera Shake</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/4-simple-tips-to-reduce-camera-shake/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/4-simple-tips-to-reduce-camera-shake/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Aug 2009 09:09:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reduce]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=49</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Yes, it&#8217;s true that many fancy new camera&#8217;s have built in image stabilization. But what if your&#8217;s doesn&#8217;t have it? Can you still take great photos without a tripod? Of course! I&#8217;m going to show you some simple insider tricks to improving your chances of taking great crisp photos.
Learn to Hold Your Camera Properly
This tip [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="body">
<p>Yes, it&#8217;s true that many fancy new camera&#8217;s have built in image stabilization. But what if your&#8217;s doesn&#8217;t have it? Can you still take great photos without a tripod? Of course! I&#8217;m going to show you some simple insider tricks to improving your chances of taking great crisp photos.</p>
<p>Learn to Hold Your Camera Properly</p>
<p>This tip is targeted towards those people who have a traditional film camera or digital SLR. It&#8217;s surprising how just learning to hold your camera properly can massively cut down on the amount of blurry photos you take. It&#8217;s simple. When looking through the viewfinder make sure that the camera is firmly planted against your face! That&#8217;s right, you use your face as a stabilizer. Sure you may get nose prints on the back, but it&#8217;s a very small price to pay for great photos. Your other hand should be holding your lens from underneath. This creates a nice stable platform for your camera.<span id="more-49"></span></p>
<p>Tuck Those Elbows In</p>
<p>This applies to both SLR and small point and shoot cameras. Tucking your elbows in to your sides stabilizes your arms and reduces shake compared to having your arms floating in front of you.</p>
<p>Lean on Me</p>
<p>This may seem obvious, but leaning against something is another great way to reduce the chances of a blurry shot. Lamp posts, railings and walls are all great choices. This works extremely well in low light conditions where you can&#8217;t use a flash. Combined with the elbow tuck, you can get clean shots that would normally be impossible under these lighting conditions.</p>
<p>Improvise a Tripod</p>
<p>This is great for indoor shots or longer exposures when you don&#8217;t have a real tripod. Railings, books, tables, beer glasses and coasters are just a small number of everyday objects that you can use to prop up or rest your camera on. Make sure to use the self timer when doing this. It is essential in order to get non-blurry shots. Just pushing the shutter release with your finger will introduce enough vibration to make longer exposures a complete blurry mess.</p>
<p>There you have it. Some simple and easy tips to get great crisp shots. Give these a try and I&#8217;m sure you&#8217;ll be pleasantly surprised at how effective these techniques are. Happy shooting!</p></div>
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		<title>Digital Photography: History and Tips</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/digital-photography-history-and-tips/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/digital-photography-history-and-tips/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 May 2009 05:11:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Canera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[digital]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=37</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Although the history of digital photography isn’t very long, digital photography has already transformed how people take and view photos.
Before digital photography, most photos had been viewed as prints. Today, however, the majority of photos are edited and viewed on computers. Digital photography allows a photographer to develop his own film by using digital printing.
Yet, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="article-holder">
<p>Although the history of digital photography isn’t very long, digital photography has already transformed how people take and view photos.</p>
<p>Before digital photography, most photos had been viewed as prints. Today, however, the majority of photos are edited and viewed on computers. Digital photography allows a photographer to develop his own film by using digital printing.</p>
<p>Yet, while digital cameras have taken the photography world by storm, film cameras have their advantages.</p>
<p><strong>The History of Digital Photography<br />
</strong>While most people may believe the history of digital photography goes back only ten or fifteen years, digital photography had been around for years before the first digital cameras were available to the public.</p>
<p>The history of digital cameras began as early as the 1980s, when digital photography replaced traditional film in astronomy. Digital cameras capture light better than film plates.</p>
<p><img src="http://www.photography.com/wp-content/images/imgLXG30306-0CO-01.jpg" border="0" alt="" hspace="5" vspace="5" align="right" />Since their introduction, commercial digital cameras have largely replaced manual cameras, as photographers can more easily upload, edit and email their pictures.</p>
<p>Digital photography printing allows photographers to create high quality prints in their own homes. As the history of digital photography progresses, expect to see even more options and features added to digital cameras.</p>
<p><strong>Digital Photography Tips<br />
</strong>Generally, digital photography tips aren’t different from film camera tips. The rules of basic photography composition and lighting remain the same. However, some tips can improve your digital photographs:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Be Fearless</strong> : If you’ve got a large memory card, you can take multiple photos, review them instantly through the LCD screen and delete the shots you don’t want. This saves time and money that traditional film development demands. This unique feature of digital photography has made amateur photographers less concerned with how many shots they take. Because they have the freedom to take more photos, they have a better chance of catching that perfect shot.</li>
<li><strong>Read the Manual</strong> : While this advice is hardly unique to digital cameras, it remains one of the most important digital photography tips. Your camera may include macro features, various lighting settings, video camera capabilities and more. You’ll get the most use out of your camera’s features if you read the manual and learn how to use them.</li>
<li><strong>Experiment</strong> : A digital camera’s LCD screen lets people quickly review photos, allowing photographers to experiment with their camera’s settings. Would that photo look best as a landscape or an action shot? What happens if the lighting is set to overcast on a clear day? By experimenting with digital camera settings, people are discovering how to get unusual effects in their photos. If an experiment doesn’t work, delete the flawed photo.</li>
<li><strong>Use Your Self-Timer</strong>: One of the most under-used features in every digital camera is the self-timer. The self-timer delays the firing of the shutter after the button is pushed. There’s really nothing like getting everyone, including the photographer, in the shot. Plus, then you don’t run the risk of handing over your beloved camera to a stranger who may or may not get the shot you want and may or may not run off, camera in hand! Just line up the shot you want, activate the self-timer and hop in the picture. Usually you’ll have up to ten second to do so. Your memories will be all the better for it.</li>
<li><strong>Warm Up Your Tones</strong>: Often, professional photographers do not like to take photos in the sunlight. But you can overcome the issues that come along with that by changing a featire on your digital camera. If you adjust your white balance setting from “auto” to “cloudy,” you’ll automatically increase the balance of reds and yellows and the result will be warmer pictures.</li>
<li><strong>Head Outdoors</strong>: It may sound crazy, but feel free to use your flash for outdoor photos. Wedding photographers have been doing it for years! In your “flash on” or “fill flash” mode, the camera will expose the background first, and then add just enough light to expose your subject. Both the foreground and the background will be equally exposed and your photos will look like a pro took them. But remember, flashes often have a range of only about ten feet.</li>
<li><strong>Use a Tripod</strong>: In the past, tripods have been bulky, annoying and difficult to use. But those days are over. There are a few brands out there now that fold up and fit nicely in a pocket or purse. So you can get that professional quality without having to drag along a load of equipment.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>When to Avoid Digital Photography<br />
</strong>The history of digital photography has been so successful that you might wonder why anyone would still use film. Yet, traditional film has advantages over digital photography in particular circumstances.</p>
<p>Many photojournalists prefer to use traditional film. Although a digital camera lets a photographer quickly edit his photos, photojournalists build their reputations on the accuracy of their photographs. While some photojournalists use digital cameras, others prefer to use film so they can prove an image has not been altered.</p>
<p>For similar reasons, film is more admissible in court than digital photography, as there is less chance that someone has tampered with photographic evidence. While the camera may not lie, a software-editing program can!</p>
<p>Another issue with digital cameras is that they are more sensitive to cold and dampness than film cameras. As a result, film remains the choice of photographers working where bitter cold or wet conditions could damage a digital camera.</p>
<p>Some photographers simply prefer to use film, maintaining that digital photographs lack the detail and “feel” of film. In some ways, these arguments correspond to the “CD vs. vinyl” debate that began with the introduction of compact discs.</p>
<p><strong>Digital Photography Versus Film<br />
</strong>So which is better, digital photography or film? Compare the advantages of each:</p>
<p><strong>Digital Photography Advantages</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Digital cameras are usually smaller than film cameras.</li>
<li>Digital cameras can embed metadata into the image file (time, date, camera settings, etc.).</li>
<li>Digital image files can be backed up and copied.</li>
<li>Digital images can be altered with editing software for specific effects.</li>
<li>Digital photography enables you to experiment without concern for time or the cost of developing flawed pictures.</li>
<li>Digital printing can be done from a home computer with either a standard or digital printer.</li>
<li>LCD screens on digital cameras allow for instant picture review and deletion.</li>
<li>Many digital cameras have AV-out capabilities for television viewing.</li>
<li>Photographers can print certain pictures and not others.</li>
<li>Some digital cameras allow you to lock files to avoid accidental deletion.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Advantages of Film Cameras</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Film cameras are less expensive than digital cameras of the same quality.</li>
<li>Film cameras are more durable in outdoor environments and adverse conditions.</li>
<li>Film cameras can work without batteries.</li>
<li>Film is harder to manipulate than digital images, ensuring the integrity of the original images.</li>
<li>Some film types (infrared film, for example) have no digital counterpart.</li>
</ul>
<p>Although digital cameras probably won’t completely replace film, their versatility and unique features make them an excellent choice for the amateur photographer.</p></div>
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		<title>The Best Camera Lens To Take On Your Safari</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/the-best-camera-lens-to-take-on-your-safari/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/the-best-camera-lens-to-take-on-your-safari/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 May 2009 08:50:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>richard</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[lens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=26</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
So you&#8217;ve booked your once in a lifetime safari trip to Africa and now your thoughts turn towards photographing all the wildlife you are going to encounter on your adventure.
It would be a great shame to come across your first African pride of lions and not have some decent pictures of the memorable event to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="body">
<p>So you&#8217;ve booked your once in a lifetime safari trip to Africa and now your thoughts turn towards photographing all the wildlife you are going to encounter on your adventure.<span id="more-26"></span></p>
<p>It would be a great shame to come across your first African pride of lions and not have some decent pictures of the memorable event to show your friends and family back home.</p>
<p>Unfortunately many people who go on safari don&#8217;t realize that the camera lens you take with you will be the deciding factor between getting wildlife photos where the subject is an unrecognizable blob in a sea of vegetation compared to a crisp, tightly framed image of that black maned leader of the lion pride.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve been practicing wildlife photography on safari for over twenty years now and I&#8217;ve learnt which are the best lenses to arm yourself with when you go into the African bush to capture lasting, quality images you will be proud to display to anyone.</p>
<p>My recommendations here are for the occasional wildlife photographer such as someone going on an African safari and not for professional wildlife photographers as they have different needs when it comes to camera lenses because they take photographs for a living.</p>
<p>To help you choose a lens to take with you on safari, here is a list of the factors you need to take into account before putting your money down&#8230;</p>
<p><strong>1. Size Of The Lens</strong></p>
<p>Anything less than a 300mm lens for the big game you will encounter on safari like lion, rhino, elephant etc will be too small. A 400mm lens will allow you to get good pictures of the smaller animals like bushbuck, vervet monkey and the like. If you are aiming for bird photographs then a 600 mm lens will do the trick.</p>
<p><strong>2. Your Budget</strong></p>
<p>It&#8217;s very easy to find lenses that cost thousands of dollars but if you are primarily going to be using it for your safari trip and maybe a smattering of wildlife photography after that, you shouldn&#8217;t be spending more than a few hundred dollars. It is possible to get a lens of high enough quality for your purpose in that price range.</p>
<p><strong>3. Image Stabilization</strong></p>
<p>It&#8217;s not imperative but if you can get a lens with an image stabilizer it&#8217;s a huge advantage on a safari because you can handhold the lens without too much fear of blurring in good light which is especially useful if you are not next to a window in the safari vehicle or don&#8217;t have enough space to position your beanbag or tripod.</p>
<p><strong>4. Zoom Ability</strong></p>
<p>On safari one lens is better than two because of the nature of your subject. When you come across a leopard you won&#8217;t have time to switch lenses on your camera body because they tend not to stick around for too long so one lens with a good zoom is a big advantage to capture the very shy wildlife you will encounter. Another reason not to change lenses is that dust that is prevalent on an African safari can cause the camera mechanisms to clog up.</p>
<p>So keep these four factors in mind before you make your purchase and if you can find a lens that conforms to all the above requirements than you have a winner.</p></div>
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		<title>Photographic cameras</title>
		<link>http://larkphotography.com/photographic-cameras/</link>
		<comments>http://larkphotography.com/photographic-cameras/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 18 Aug 2008 15:06:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lark</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Photographic]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://larkphotography.com/?p=3</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The camera or camera obscura is the image-forming device, and photographic film or a silicon electronic image sensor is the sensing medium. The respective recording medium can be the film itself, or a digital electronic or magnetic memory.
Photographers control the camera and lens to &#8220;expose&#8221; the light recording material (such as film) to the required [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignleft" title="Nature" src="http://www.imagekind.com/photography/nature_photography/nature_photography.jpg" alt="" width="350" height="307" />The <a title="Camera" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camera">camera</a> or <a title="Camera obscura" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camera_obscura">camera obscura</a> is the image-forming device, and <a title="Photographic film" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photographic_film">photographic film</a> or a <a title="Silicon" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon">silicon</a> electronic <a title="Image sensor" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor">image sensor</a> is the sensing medium. The respective recording medium can be the film itself, or a digital electronic or magnetic memory.</p>
<p>Photographers control the camera and lens to &#8220;expose&#8221; the light recording material (such as film) to the required amount of light to form a &#8220;<a title="Latent image" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latent_image">latent image</a>&#8221; (on film) or &#8220;raw file&#8221; (in digital cameras) which, after appropriate processing, is converted to a usable image. Digital cameras replace film with an electronic <a title="Image sensor" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor">image sensor</a> based on light-sensitive electronics such as <a title="Charge-coupled device" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charge-coupled_device">charge-coupled device</a> (CCD) or <a class="mw-redirect" title="Complementary metal-oxide-semiconductor" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Complementary_metal-oxide-semiconductor">complementary metal-oxide-semiconductor</a> (CMOS) technology. The resulting digital image is stored electronically, but can be reproduced on paper or film.</p>
<p>In all but certain specialized cameras, the process of obtaining a usable exposure must involve the use, manually or automatically, of a few controls to ensure the photograph is clear, sharp and well illuminated. The controls usually include but are not limited to the following:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Focus of the lens</strong></li>
<li><strong><a title="Aperture" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture">Aperture</a> of the lens</strong> – adjustment of the <a title="Diaphragm (optics)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaphragm_%28optics%29">iris</a>, measured as <a title="F-number" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number">f-number</a>, which controls the amount of light passing through the lens. Aperture also has an effect on focus and <a title="Depth of field" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field">depth of field</a>, namely, the smaller the opening [aperture], the less light but the greater the depth of field&#8211;that is, the greater the range within which objects appear to be sharply focused.</li>
<li><strong><a title="Shutter speed" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_speed">Shutter speed</a></strong> – adjustment of the speed (often expressed either as fractions of seconds or as an angle, with mechanical shutters) of the shutter to control the amount of time during which the imaging medium is exposed to light for each exposure. Shutter speed may be used to control the amount of light striking the image plane; &#8216;faster&#8217; shutter speeds (that is, those of shorter duration) decrease both the amount of light and the amount of image blurring from subject motion or camera motion.</li>
<li><strong><a title="Color balance" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_balance">White balance</a></strong> – on digital cameras, electronic compensation for the <a title="Color temperature" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature">color temperature</a> associated with a given set of lighting conditions, ensuring that white light is registered as such on the imaging chip and therefore that the colors in the frame will appear natural. On mechanical, film-based cameras, this function is served by the operator&#8217;s choice of <a title="Film stock" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_stock">film stock</a>. In addition to using white balance to register natural coloration of the image, photographers may employ white balance to aesthetic end, for example white balancing to a blue object in order to obtain a warm <a title="Color temperature" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature">color temperature</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Metering</strong> – measurement of exposure at a midtone so that highlights and shadows are exposed according to the photographer&#8217;s wishes. Many modern cameras feature this ability, though it is traditionally accomplished with the use of a separate <a title="Light meter" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_meter">light metering device</a>. To translate the amount of light into a usable aperture and shutter speed, the meter needs to input the sensitivity of the film or sensor to light. Thus there needs to be a setting for &#8220;film speed&#8221; or ISO sensitivity.</li>
<li><strong><a class="mw-redirect" title="ISO" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO">ISO</a> speed</strong> – traditionally used to &#8220;tell the camera&#8221; the <a title="Film speed" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_speed">film speed</a> of the selected film on film cameras, ISO speeds are employed on modern digital cameras as an indication of the system&#8217;s <em><a title="Gain" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gain">gain</a></em> from light to numerical output and to control the automatic exposure system. A correct combination of ISO speed, aperture, and shutter speed leads to an image that is neither too dark nor too light.</li>
<li><strong>Auto-focus point</strong> – on some cameras, the selection of a point in the imaging frame upon which the auto-focus system will attempt to focus. Many <a title="Single-lens reflex camera" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single-lens_reflex_camera">Single-lens reflex cameras</a> (SLR) feature multiple auto-focus points in the viewfinder.</li>
</ul>
<p>Many other elements of the imaging device itself may have a pronounced effect on the quality and/or aesthetic effect of a given photograph; among them are:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Focal length</strong> and <strong>type of lens</strong> (<a title="Telephoto lens" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telephoto_lens">telephoto</a> or &#8220;long&#8221; lens, <a title="Macro photography" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macro_photography">macro</a>, <a title="Wide-angle lens" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wide-angle_lens">wide angle</a>, <a title="Fisheye lens" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fisheye_lens">fisheye</a>, or <a title="Zoom lens" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoom_lens">zoom</a>)</li>
<li><strong>Filters or scrims</strong> placed between the subject and the light recording material, either in front of or behind the lens</li>
<li>Inherent <strong>sensitivity</strong> of the medium to light intensity and color/wavelengths.</li>
<li>The nature of the light <strong>recording material</strong>, for example its resolution as measured in pixels or grains of <a title="Silver halide" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver_halide">silver halide</a>.</li>
</ul>
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