Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Using Expensive SLR Cameras at Weddings

Monday, April 26th, 2010

Most people see someone carrying expensive SLR cameras at weddings and are immediately struck by a sense of awe and respect, getting out of their way to let them take pictures of anything they like. SLR cameras have a distinctive look; the large barrel, the popup flash. They look like they mean business, unlike the slim point and shoot cameras that are designed to fit as much ability as possible into your pocket.

I own both an SLR and a point and shoot. Personally, I find that with a good enough point and shoot camera, the knowledge of how to use the manual settings is all I really need to produce a picture as good as one taken with the SLR. In some cases the picture may even turn out better, because my point and shoot has auto-focus and anti-shake technology built in. The limited ability to change exposure and aperture manually even helps, because it refuses to allow me to use a setting that will create an overly dim or overly bright picture.

Together, this means I can focus on creating the best frame and composition for each picture without worrying about whether it will turn out blurred, too dark, or too bright. With my SLR, I find myself taking the same picture over and over, adjusting settings minutely each time. Of course, given enough time and a tripod, say with a landscape scene, I can adjust everything until it produces an absolutely gorgeous picture. But in a wedding, where every moment is special and only occurs for an instant, I simply cannot afford the time to adjust my settings between each shot. It’s a balance between leaving the camera on one setting and hoping it works for every shot I take, and risking missing out on something important as I adjust exposure and aperture. With a point and shoot camera, I let the camera worry about the basic settings, trusting it to adjust for light for me, and focus on capturing the events of the day in the best composition I can.

Besides, I would believe most brides would care more about the photographer catching the absolute joy on their face as they say “I do”, than about how exact the light balance is in the background, as long as it is not completely wrong. The point and shoot camera can guarantee that my backgrounds will always look alright.

So why do so many camera companies sell the idea that an SLR is better than a point and shoot? For that matter, why do I own both? Well, as I said, when taking photographs of things that are not going to change significantly in the next 5 minutes, such as flowers or even models in a photoshoot, I can spend time fiddling with settings and produce National Geographic-worthy pictures. It’s also far better when I want to take artistic shots or play with focal lengths and perspectives, because I can force the camera into settings a point and shoot will never allow, creating all kinds of interesting and unusual pictures. Every once in a while one of these pictures will be stunningly beautiful and artistic. But at an event where every moment is different yet important, I prefer to use my point and shoot for the reasons I detailed above.

Camera companies are not completely wrong to say an SLR is better than a point and shoot. The SLR has the potential to produce pictures of amazing quality, perspective and artistry that the point and shoot will only be able to imitate. But that’s all it is, a potential. What it comes down to is the ability of the photographer to maximise the ability of his camera. In the hands of someone who knows exactly what setting to use for every shot, every possible scenario, every possible balance of light and shade, a point and shoot can produce better pictures than I can, stumbling around with my SLR.

Shooting the Moon – Learn the Secret on How to Take Perfect Pictures of the Moon

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

Sorry for not posting for  while. I was busy doing something else. Now I’ve come back to give  you tips. :)

Photography in the moonlight follows the general rules for night shooting, but remember that the moon is a relatively strong light source, so if you want to include it in the image, it can easily become overexposed. When the graceful sunset is replaced by the more subtle and mysterious moon, then this is part of what makes moonlight so well suited for photography. The special light, the magical atmosphere, which cannot be reproduced by all kinds of studio setups.

Although we have a beautiful photograph of a full moon and dark cloudless sky, perhaps also with other elements such as large trees, beautiful buildings, or a daring bridge construction.

Almost everyone who pulls out the mobile phone or compact camera and snapping the moon will be disappointed when the results are available. Most often, the moon appears as a fuzzy circular light.

How is it that the moon that glows so clear and makes so much of himself in the night sky is so little photogenic?

The photographic challenges is that the moon is much brighter than the sky and the rest will be exposed if we do not set the camera correctly. Moreover, the moon is far away and make up a very small portion of the image surface using normal lenses. And it’s also in motion…

The first commandment is clear weather and clear view. To take good pictures of the moon, which is small, far away and moving, you need a telephoto lens and a tripod (or good support). Turn off the anti-vibration function if you use a tripod. To avoid overexposure, use a short shutter speed. For best control, select manual tuning. I recommend aperture f/11 and shutter speed 1/250 sec.

How to Turn Your Digital Camera Hobby Into a Money Making Business

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

Make Money With Your Digital Camera

Turning a hobby or pastime like digital photography into a money making deal can offer possibilities of generating extra income for the person with a creative and entrepreneurial mind. With the current technology and quality of digital cameras, paired with the wide reach of the internet, many photographers can offer their products and services online. Below are some ways to cash in on the digital photography wave.

Follow the People

You must know what people want. Make your presence felt in the places people are. There are many places you can go where people would want their photos to be taken, somewhere memorable. You can offer your service during parades, concerts, competitions, gatherings, parks, and just any tourist attractions people might be compelled to have their pictures taken. It would help if you had your own business card, present your services to the crowd and start taking those photos. Open a legitimate website where people can view their photos and they can just choose to buy what they prefer.

Create Novelty Items

If you have access to software that can create novelty items that allow you to superimpose people’s images to a background, make use of it. Advertise yourself and offer a variety of unique services to companies. Take note of the additional expenses you might accumulate, including time and travel expenses to each item. This could add to your profit margin. (more…)

Picturing a Frame Within a Picture Frame

Sunday, May 24th, 2009

One of the most striking field techniques around is foreground framing. Used effectively, it helps direct the viewer’s eye right to the photo’s star attraction. Read more in this photography article by BetterPhoto instructor Kerry Drager:

Desert Rock Frame
Desert Rock Frame
© Kerry Drager
All Rights Reserved

Options: Frames come in all shapes and sizes. Some surround an entire background subject, while other frames are partial ones: i.e., side, bottom, or top. Examples of framing devices include overhanging tree branches, arches, windows, doors, sculptures, fences, looming rock formations, fountains, flowers, architectural elements, a companion’s outstretched arm, or a nearby hot-air balloon in a colorful race.

Composition: Although a foreground border often spotlights your center of interest, an extra-special frame sometimes serves as the primary subject itself. Also, a frame can show a subject in relation to its surroundings and can even produce a three-dimensional effect, in which the scene sweeps away from front to back.

In addition, a border can help clean up a composition – by concealing distracting objects or by filling up a featureless sky. Occasionally you can use more than one frame – for instance, picturing a subject through the openings on separate walls of an old building.

Wide Look: An exclusive “storytelling” perspective – the ability to combine intimate details with distant views in the same picture – makes the wide-angle a valuable tool for creating frame shots. The wide-angle also helps strengthen the sense of depth, since a close-at-hand foreground appears larger in relation to the background.

Tele Views: A telephoto or tele-zoom offers its own unique look for framing. Use it to compress space – in other words, to make the frame and backdrop appear closer together than they really are.

Sunset on California Coast
Sunset on California Coast
© Kerry Drager
All Rights Reserved

Exposure: Be careful of lighting extremes – say, if your frame is in shadow and your subject is in sunlight. A camera can’t record good color and details in both sunlit and shadowed areas at the same time.

Fill-in flash, however, could lighten up a shadowed foreground. But if that dark object is sharply outlined, easily identifiable, and set against a bright background, consider going for a striking silhouette to spotlight your distant subject. To achieve a silhouette, make sure your meter registers the sunlit areas of the scene and not the shaded frame.

Depth of Field: Most foreground frames look best if they are in sharp focus; others work more effectively when they are in soft focus (say, to emphasize a crisp-and-clear background subject).

Not sure? Then shoot the scene both ways: with a small aperture (high f/stop number) for maximum near-to-far sharpness and a large aperture (low f/stop number) for a “selective focus” effect. Such experimenting is crucial to success when framing frames!

More photo examples: Check out BetterPhoto’s “Framing the Subject” gallery.

White Balance and Tone Control Settings

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Basic White Balance

Keep White Balance (WB) on ‘Auto’ most times, but change them when shooting in a light source that does not look right on the LCD (i.e. the picture looks way too yellow, red or blue).

Typically the most common mistake is when the ‘Indoors’ WB is set and we shoot outside! (more…)

How to Shoot Wildlife Photography

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Wildlife subjects can be divided into two categories: wild and under human control. Pursuing both can produce wonderful images. Of course, there’s nothing more exciting than capturing a spectacular image of a wild animal in its natural environment, but many times it’s not possible to travel to exotic locations or spend days or weeks tracking an animal. What’s more, many animals are extremely dangerous. Learn tips on getting great wildlife photos in the following article by professional photographer Jim Zuckerman. (more…)

Camera Lens: Different Types of Lenses

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

Camera lens: Different types of camera lenses

To new photographers it can be quite surprising just how many types of lenses there are.  Some manufactures offer dozens of lenses at any given time.  Understanding the options is the first step to building your own photo system.

Basic Lens Types

At a glance there are three basic types of lenses: wide, normal and telephoto.  All lenses, in some way, warp what they are looking at.  The way they focus light can make the foreground and background appear really close together or really far apart.  A normal lens is one where these layers appear most like they do to the human eye.  Ones that push the background away are wide.  Those that bring the background close are telephoto.  The more popular lenses are called zoom lenses.  These are extendable lenses that are often (but not always) wide, normal and telephoto all built into one.  (more…)

Portrait Photography

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

A face devoid of love or grace,
A hateful, hard, successful face,
A face with which a stone
Would feel as thoroughly at ease
As were they old acquaintances,–
First time together thrown.
– “A Portrait” by Emily Dickinson

Below are two photos by world-famous portrait photographer: Elsa Dorfman. Elsa has the same kind of studio, background, lights, and equipment as a lot of folks with more technical skill. Yet those folks aren’t portrait photographers and Elsa is. What’s the difference? Elsa cares about people. She is genuinely curious about people she has never met and can connect with them in just a few minutes. After a one-hour session, she knows more about her average subject’s life than I do about my sister’s.

Elsa uses a 20×24″ Polaroid camera. Film costs about $50/exposure, so she limits herself to two exposures per subject. Yet her photo of me and Alex (below right) is one of the only pictures of myself that I like. Our advice to digital photographers is to fill the flash card with at least 50 images in hopes of yielding one that captures the essence of a subject’s expression.

Elsa’s artistic success implies that the most important thing about portrait photography is an interest in your subject. If you are so busy working that you can’t care about strangers, don’t take their photos! Or at rate, don’t expect those photos to be good. Some of my better portraits were taken on a trip to Alaska and back because I had 3.5 months in which to be alone and learn to appreciate the value of a stranger’s company and conversation.

Location

If you don’t have or can’t create a photo studio, concentrate on environmental portraiture. Show the subject and also his surroundings. These tend to work best if you can enlarge the final image to at least 11×14 inches. In any smaller photo, the subject’s face is simply too small. Taking photos that will enlarge well is a whole art by itself. Your allies in this endeavor will be a low ISO setting, prime (rather than zoom) lenses, a tripod, and at least a mid-range digital SLR.

There are two elements to a photo studio for portrait photography. One is a controlled background. You want to focus attention on your subject and avoid distracting elements in the frame. Probably the best portraits aren’t taken against a gray seamless paper roll. On the other hand, you are unlikely to screw up and leave something distracting in the frame if you confine yourself to using seamless paper or other monochromatic backgrounds. You don’t have to build a special room to have a controlled background. There are all kinds of clever portable backdrops and backdrop supports that you can buy or build. If you absolutely cannot control the background, the standard way to cheat is to use a long fast lens, e.g., 300/2.8. Fast telephoto lenses have very little depth of field. Your subject’s eyes and nose will be sharp. Everything else that might have been distracting will be blurred into blobs of color.

The second element of a portrait studio is controlled lighting. With lights on stands or hanging from the ceiling, you get to pick the angle at which light will strike your subject. With umbrellas and other diffusion equipment, you get to pick the harshness of the shadows on your subject (see out studio photography primer). There are some pretty reasonable portable flash kits consisting of a couple of lights, light stands, and umbrellas. These cost $500-1000 and take 20 minutes or so to set up on location. If you don’t have the money, time, or muscles to bring a light package to a project, the standard way to cheat is to park your subject next to a large window and put a white reflecting card on the other side. Don’t forget the tripod, because you’ll probably be forced to use slow shutter speeds.

Stealing a Location

What if you don’t have a big open space with diffuse light and a neutral background? Steal one. If you live in the United States, a vast open space with light pouring in from expensive skylights is as close as your nearest art museum or university. With a 200mm lens set to f/2.8, the background will be thrown out of focus. Here are some examples from the Boston Museum of Fine Arts and a couple of lobbies at MIT, taken on a cold February day in Boston. Canon EOS-5D, 70-200/2.8 IS lens, handheld without flash.

Lighting

The most flattering light for most portraits is soft and off-camera. A large north-facing window works, as does the electronic equivalent, the softbox (light bank). The Elsa Dorfman Polaroid photo at the top right was taken with two large light banks, one on either side of the camera. Note that there are essentially no shadows.

If your subject is outdoors, an overcast day is best. If the day is sunny, make sure to use a reflector or electronic flash to fill in shadows underneath the eyes.

At right: In a New York loft, light coming from a bank of windows at left. Canon 70-200/2.8 lens on tripod. Possibly some fill-flash. Fuji ISO 400 color negative film.